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Thread: grounding rods

  1. #16
    TMO
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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Standard 18" T handle rod, and when i need to i use my 4' probe.

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    Member spraypray&sweat's Avatar
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    Default Re: grounding rods

    1 3/8 in 3 and a half foot long steel rod with a half inch 1 foot long T handle welded to it tappered down from the bottom so it looks like a very large spike oh yeah of course got to have the black electrical tape around the T handle so it does not give you a little buzz in the rain

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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Over the years I've used a lot of things, including pole anchors and fence posts, but at the moment my favorites are a 40" metal probe (insulated handle of course), an enormous flat screwdriver I found a while back, and a 5' long half inch copper pipe I use in really sandy soils when I work in the sandy soils closer to the coast. Drive that puppy in a couple feet, pour water in the pipe, massive signal. Just gotta be mindful of whats around when you drive it. If power might be close I do a quick passive scan of the area to CMA.
    "You have enemies? Good! That means you've stood up for something sometime in your life." ~ Winston Churchill

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    Default Re: grounding rods

    What the hell does cloud computing have to do with ground rods? Me I use 3' copper rod that I got from a Qwest tech ten years ago.
    Work smarter not harder!!!

  5. #20
    Mke
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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Come on Rockiesgirl, Far be it for us to critisize "The" Albert Einstein from the land of "Fine" on the connection between grounding rods and cloud computing =)

    Mke

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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Anybody tried grounding to the frame of your truck? How could this possibly work?

  7. #22
    Premium Member daman1's Avatar
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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Quote Originally Posted by Cheddar View Post
    Anybody tried grounding to the frame of your truck? How could this possibly work?
    Never tried it. Seems like the tires would prevent you from having a complete loop and there would be no flow to track.

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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Quote Originally Posted by daman1 View Post
    Never tried it. Seems like the tires would prevent you from having a complete loop and there would be no flow to track.
    You have a conductor, the truck, and another conductor, the earth. Seperating the two is an insulator, the tires. Basicaly this is a crude capacitor.

    What you will read, if the current is enough, is the charging current as the 'capacitor' charges and discharges at the frequency rate of the transmitter.

    I would not trust this method. Get a long lead and make a jumper to reach a good ground.

  9. #24
    Junior Member db90's Avatar
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    Default Re: grounding rods

    You guys in the suburbs got it easy. Endless options. LOL. In the city, I use whats available, street sign, manhole or valve frame, etc. The row houses often have the gas meters in the basement door well, under the stairs to the main door. In this case the bolts holding the old cast iron stairs together will work. I keep water in the truck because I use the ground plate when all else fails. As far as using the truck frame, I recall a piece of equipment called the Pierson, I think. Supposedly good for deep utilities and long distance locates. This thing used the truck as a ground if I recall correctly. I only used it once with the guidance of our equipment mnger. Anyway, I didn't like it and ended up finding that particular gas line with my 810 eventually.

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    Premium Member daman1's Avatar
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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Quote Originally Posted by db90 View Post
    You guys in the suburbs got it easy. Endless options. LOL. In the city, I use whats available, street sign, manhole or valve frame, etc. The row houses often have the gas meters in the basement door well, under the stairs to the main door. In this case the bolts holding the old cast iron stairs together will work. I keep water in the truck because I use the ground plate when all else fails. As far as using the truck frame, I recall a piece of equipment called the Pierson, I think. Supposedly good for deep utilities and long distance locates. This thing used the truck as a ground if I recall correctly. I only used it once with the guidance of our equipment mnger. Anyway, I didn't like it and ended up finding that particular gas line with my 810 eventually.
    Yup, urban locating can be a pain. If you're marking gas, the meter itself makes a good ground. Put the positive lead on the tracer (if it's a steel service, the on/off valve) and the negative on the pipe between the house and the meter. The meter itself will act as an insulator. You don't even have to move the ground to mark the other utilities if they're close enough as long as they didn't use the gas lines to ground on. That happens sometimes. I was skeptical until I had time to try it and double check my marks. Sometimes you'll have to find a better ground but most of the time it works fine. Especially on plastic.
    second notice likes this.

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    Senior Member UULC's Avatar
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    Default Re: grounding rods

    I have a 50' heavy gauge #10 wire with clamps on either end. I will look for a street sign fence post, and type of metal going into the ground. Just be careful if you cross over other utilities and could bleed off. Look at your milliamps.

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    Default Re: grounding rods

    There was someone in my company, when I worked for Connective Solutions, that used a regular 1 foot copper rod and punctured the house's gas line. That was probably the first and only repair the company had to pay for that wasn't one of our utilities. Haha

    Oh, and how many times have you seen the n00b locators use a fence (and locate the ground along the fence) and/or use the power's ground and locate the power instead of the phone or cable?

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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Lots of good info here. I lost the stake from the kit within the first week. got a 2' copper pipe but after hammering on it for a couple weeks its just too soft. summer is easy, I can use a long shank screwdriver, rebar, or tent stake. I was amazed when I threw a flat aluminum plate into a puddle and it worked really well! I have tried chain link fence and knowing what I know now prolly wont do that again. sign posts, valve boxes, or anything nearby is hit or miss. I am going to rig up my extension wire on a spool and would rather run out a good ground than use one that's questionable. grounding over other conductors tends to give me trouble but sometimes its so congested and limited access there isn't a better way, maybe only inserting ground stake a few inches would help? winter killed me last year, but I like the drill bit and hatchet ideas, thanks guys!

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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Anyone from east Texas. When it rains the red clay or sand is easy to get ground rod in. When it dry, I can hardly get a good ground. How can I make this work?
    PS any tips or tricks to get flags in this hard ground? And paint doesn't stick to sand. Any tricks to get marks on the ground????? Thanks in advance.

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    Default Re: grounding rods

    Quote Originally Posted by CWVines View Post
    Anyone from east Texas. When it rains the red clay or sand is easy to get ground rod in. When it dry, I can hardly get a good ground. How can I make this work?
    PS any tips or tricks to get flags in this hard ground? And paint doesn't stick to sand. Any tricks to get marks on the ground????? Thanks in advance.
    Might have to use what we call a ground pounder. It is basically a slide hammer grounding rod. We pound it deep enough in the frozen earth to get a ground. I would also carry a couple gallons of water with you. Pour it on the ground and pound your ground rod in the wetness. There is also the copper or AL plate and pour water on it. I use a cordless drill and a 1/4 long drill bit that is 18" long and drill the hole and drop the flag in.
    daman1 and UULC like this.

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