Ground Rod

**japapoe** · May 27th, 2009, 08:27 PM

I currently use the "T" type ground rod but am thinking about going to a bit smaller ground rod that will fit in my bag easier...anybody have any suggestions where to look?

**Goldenboy** · May 27th, 2009, 08:48 PM

Old screwdrivers. That's all I've used for years. Just find one big enough to do the job and small enough to fit in you're bag. Best thing is they have the plastic handle so you don't get shocked when kneeling down and moving your ground.

**yahoo** · May 27th, 2009, 08:50 PM

the local construction site would be a good start to get something free....my favorite way to go!!!

**Goldenboy** · May 27th, 2009, 09:02 PM

I've been meaning to order a Goldak ground rod but just haven't gotten around to it. It's a small "U" shaped rod so you get double the ground.

http://www.goldak.com/inner/purchase/groundrod.shtml

**yahoo** · May 27th, 2009, 09:19 PM

hey Golden........is that really true??????

**beyond help** · May 27th, 2009, 09:38 PM

Originally Posted by yahoo

hey Golden........is that really true??????

It's all about the total surface, and yes it's true.

**Dave72** · May 27th, 2009, 10:28 PM

Uhoh.. is this gonna get odd ?

If you have 2 ground points and monitor a 'signal' via each of those points.. comparing them with each other in time domain.. the signal peaks (ac signal of course) is not going to be in sync (but perhaps if you had it oriented exactly parallel to the incoming field ?).
If you connect the 2 points together, like that hoop thing, you could get some cancellation effect in the 'antenna'.

OR.. did I just spend too much time in my garage ?

What I see alot of, is people putting the ground way too close to the target connection. Like to the ped, or to the ground stake (we use a rod thats bent into a triangle at the top) right beside your boot. You get a decent signal in the middle of the run that way, but the near end is pretty wobbly. Getting that signal out 10ft or such helps a bunch.

**TheCableVine** · May 28th, 2009, 12:09 AM

I go down to the local hardware store and buy the "spikes" that look like large nails. They charge by the weight so you can get 10 spikes for about $1.25 or around there. This is good in case you have a tendency to lose things.

The ones I get are about 8 inches long and are perfect. Pointy on one end and flat on the other.

**sprayandpray** · May 28th, 2009, 06:41 PM

I found an 18" piece of rebar, bent it at a 90 deg angle about 2/3rd's of the way, ground the long end to a sharp point, wrapped the shorter end with electrical tape - Ground rod. I've used it over 5 years now.

**phoenix827** · May 28th, 2009, 06:54 PM

Originally Posted by Dave72

What I see alot of, is people putting the ground way too close to the target connection. Like to the ped, or to the ground stake (we use a rod thats bent into a triangle at the top) right beside your boot. You get a decent signal in the middle of the run that way, but the near end is pretty wobbly. Getting that signal out 10ft or such helps a bunch.

ANyone else notice this? I have had a couple times where the only ground I could get WAS the case on the ped. I know I usually ground within reach(less then 3' away) and it seems like the signal about 20-30' away and further gets great. is it really that simple?

**yahoo** · May 28th, 2009, 09:36 PM

Originally Posted by beyond help

It's all about the total surface, and yes it's true.

nice!!!!!

**scap** · May 28th, 2009, 10:40 PM

Originally Posted by Dave72

?

What I see alot of, is people putting the ground way too close to the target connection. Like to the ped, or to the ground stake (we use a rod thats bent into a triangle at the top) right beside your boot. You get a decent signal in the middle of the run that way, but the near end is pretty wobbly. Getting that signal out 10ft or such helps a bunch.

Yea. I had a guy tell me one time, when I questioned how close his hookup was to his ground, he told me it didn't interfere. I remember thinking he was full of it.

That double ground looks handy and all, but it also looks heavy and painful to fit into my bag. I have a modified RD4000 with subsite stretchy leads, and my groundrod is a tiny but about 9 inches long flathead screwdriver that will go into the hardest dirt with no problems...it's also elec-taped , and then tak-taped on top of that, to prevent my groundrod from coming off of what is my designated ground lead....I never cable to cable, I know it's efficient for long distances and shit, but my RD is fine when I crank it up with a proper ground...

the top of the screwdriver I snapped off on purpose to have it fit in the RD4000 bag easier.

I would definately be interested in testing the double groundrod in the field though, to see if it makes a big difference. What seems to make the difference for me, is if the techs who install the shit don't dick it up and bond everything together right, more than the ground being an issue. RD and I could go on and on about using 65.5 to find stuff that other guys failed to connect in a kosher fashion

but...Like I said......I'd like to try it..